So much for good intentions and early morning departures. Decided to sleep in instead. It was nice. But after lunch Atlas, That Guy, and I headed back to the trail. It was cold and windy at the trail head but once on the trail it was fine. We hiked by Reds Meadow and through Devils Postpile National Monument today. All really beautiful. I couldn't believe how bad the tree blowdown was though. The trail was clear but the whole area was full of downed big trees. We are camping at Soda Springs camping area by the trail. There's a bear box and plenty of flat spots for the tents. Tomorrow will be our first big mileage day since before VVR so I'm off to sleep.
Monday, June 25, 2012
Sunday, June 24, 2012
Mammoth Lakes
There is always so much to do in town. The rest and relaxation you expect never seems to happen. But Mammoth is a great town. There is free public transit on the trolley car. People are friendly. The mountains loom large. We had dinner with Choo Choo and Lumbar the first night at a pizza place. That was really fun. The next day we were constantly running into other hikers. Everyone seems to stay at the Motel 6. It's hiker friendly and has laundry. I've enjoyed my stay here but as always ready to hit the trail again. I'm really looking forward to Tuolumne meadows in Yosemite Ntl. Park. My next resupply isn't until S. Lake Tahoe and that's too much food to carry. So I'm planning on buying food along the way to supplement what I have. Off I go.
Saturday, June 23, 2012
June 22, 891 - Mammoth
That Guy and I hiked to Mammoth via the Duck Lake Trail. It was a beautiful easy trail with lots of lakes. Consequently, we saw a lot of day and weekend hikers with fishing poles. It would be fun to fish in these lakes if I had time. Fresh fish cooked over a fire is delicious. We met a hiker named Bob who was hiking the loop trail around Duck Lake. Bob is 80 years old. He has hiked the John Muir trail many times over the years as well as other trails. His advice was to hike fast when you need to but know when its time to slow down. He said he still loves the mountains. Very cool. I took his picture. On the way down we got stuck behind a horse train. They were slow and we were sucking Thor dust. So That Guy takes off to run around them and I follow. Our packs are bouncing, we're leaping over branches and rocks, we pass the lead horse, get back on trail, and I trip. It was like a dive for home plate right in front of all the horseback riders. I jumped up and kept going till I was a safe distance ahead of the horses. So I'm fine but my pants now have matching holes in both legs. The trail ends at Lake Mary and we took a taxi into town. I needed some gear replacements. The Mammoth mountaineering shop is a nice outfitter. I found an icebreaker shirt that was 40% off, convertible pants, and most importantly a new hip belt for my backpack. Tomorrow will be a zero day.
June 21, VVR - Virginia Lake 891
It's another easy trail day. After a delicious breakfast of eggs, toast, and potatoes, we took the 930 am ferry back to the trail. Mammoth was only 24 miles away but with the late start plus Silver pass to climb we knew we wouldn't get there today. Silver pass was not hard. It only went to 11000 feet. However, it was a long hike up. We started around 7500 feet and it took most of the day to get up and over. After the pass we had a ridge to climb. There were a lot of deer out this afternoon. They were oblivious to us. There were also a lot of mosquitos who were Not oblivious. I had to put on my mosquito head net. Several weeks ago a bad windstorm went through the Mammoth Lakes area and downed a lot of trees. So there was a lot more scrambling and climbing over or going around these trees. Some of them were huge. I may have mentioned this before but the blowdown got worse the closer to Mammoth we got. Trail crews have been working hard to clear trails. We wanted to get to Purple lake but stopped to camp at Virginia lake instead. We found a great stealth campsite and it was getting late. That Guy and I are going to hike together as far as Tahoe. He is flying home for a family reunion from there. But tomorrow Mammoth! The picture is of Thor and the guys on the top of Silver pass.
Friday, June 22, 2012
June 20, VVR
Vermilion Valley Resort is a small camp/hotel on Lake Edison near Mono Springs. There is a store, restaurant, camping area, and cabins. There is a ferry that picks up hikers and takes them the 4 miles across the lake to the resort. I had not planned on going since I was resupplying in Mammoth Lakes. However, the thought of a good hot meal and a chance to experience another trail icon proved to much to resist. So I hiked an easy ten miles to the dock and waited for the ferry.
The sun was shining. There was a beach. That Guy and Chef were there. We went swimming. What a great afternoon. I felt like I was on vacation. Pinch me please! Once at VVR we saw Momma Bear and Monkey along with Desert Fox and other hikers. Dinner was pasta primavera. So it was a nice little stop before Mammoth, especially after hiking so hard and I thoroughly enjoyed the VVR experience.
June 19, Selden Pass, 845 - 872
Selden pass is the 'Easiest of passes', so Yogi's guide says. And it was. But it was 20 miles to the top with more than one false summit. It psyched me out. I've been doing big miles the last few days, especially for the Sierras. However the trail dictated it. It's been either 1) camp at the bottom and have very low mileage, or 2) hike up and over and have high mileage. I opted for high mileage. And to my surprise and happiness I could do it. I'm tired and ready for camp at the end of the day but I'm still strong. These passes have been over 12000 feet. Selden pass is 11000 feet.
I crossed the infamous Evolution and Bear creeks today. In higher snow years these crossings can be hazardous. But this year with its low snow levels, made the crossings easy. The water came up to my knees and was cold. Hiking alone and overcoming obstacles like stream crossings, downed trees, route finding, and decision making has really made me feel good. It's been teaching me self reliance, grown my confidence and made me cheer for myself in triumph. I'm doing it. The trail followed the river and wound through the canyon. It was sometimes high on a rocky ridge, and other times through forest and lots of lakes & meadows. I never get tired of the alpine lakes. Each one brings a smile of delight to my face. Awesome!
Houdini hiked up and we had lunch together. I can't keep up with his long legs though so I didn't see him again. So, another great day in the Sierras.
June 18, 821 - 846
My morning started with a long descent down the canyon. The morning sun was lighting up the rocks and the river was hollering on its roller coaster ride down the mountain. I made everything around me a character in a play with me as the traveler through their land. It was downhill to level most of the day. I hiked for a little bit with Yoga and Gourmet. Gourmet is a thru, Yoga is joining him for 600 miles. They've been dating 8 months. I hiked on when they took a long break and made it up and over Muir pass. That was a challenge! I lost the trail multiple times and crossed numerous creeks and rivers. At one point all I could see was moving water, rocks, and mountain peaks but no trail. I told myself 'you got this Lisa'. I looked at the map, the gps, thought about what made sense and figured it out. I finally made it to the top! Thor & two other hikers were there. I was so happy to see them I didn't take a break. I just snapped a couple pictures and followed them down. It was an easy gradual descent down to lots of lakes including beautiful Evolution lake. I'm camped here with Data, Steamer, and Conji.
June 17, mile 800 - 821
Breaking camp in the morning is always a slow process for me. As everyone packed up & got ready to go, I was surprisingly not the last one. In fact as everyone strung out like a pack train down the trail I ended up line leader for most of the morning. We are still in Kings Canyon. With two passes to climb and a lot of miles to cover I pushed hard. At the top of Pinchot pass I had lunch with Peanut, one of the Yukon hikers, and a couple others. On the way down I listened to music. The vocal version of California Dreamin came on and I danced down the trail to its rhythm. I flailed my poles around and executed a couple turns extending my poles out like wings for balance. It is not easy turning with a pack & tennis shoes on. I didn't fall. However, I've been falling a lot - 3 times in two days. Put a hole in my pants and bruised my knee. Every time I stumble &/or fall, I hear That Guys voice in my head saying 'this is a no fly zone Helicopter.' After Pinchot pass it was up and over Mather pass. I saw a lot of new faces at the top of Mather. There were 2 Chris's, and 4 others whose names I can't remember. I never saw any of the hikers I started the day with after Pinchot pass. I got way ahead. Now I'm camping in a little canyon above the Palisades river by myself. Chris & Chris went a few miles further but I was too tired to continue. Plus it was already 630. I had a big smile on my face all day. The only thing that would make it better would be a signal so I could post this blog and send a couple texts.
June 16 Kearsarge Pass - 800
I hiked solo today up and over Kearsarge Pass, then over Glen Pass, down to Rae Lakes and on to mile 800. Darlene hiked the first couple miles up the trail with me and we were having a great time. When 'oh no!' I had left my case with wallet, phone, & the days map in the car. So I stashed my pack behind a rock and hiked back to the car with Darlene. It was bound to happen sometime. I'm just glad I caught it. She headed home and I hustled back up the trail. It was fun hiking out cause I kept running into hikers on thier way down to town. I saw Power Nap, Brian, and Rian's mom. Then on the other side of the pass there was a hiker sitting in the trail with his back to me and another hiker standing. 'My buddy is low on electrolytes do you have any tablets?' He asked. The hiker on the ground groaned & mumbled. So I set my poles down and as I was taking off my pack they start laughing. It was Malpractice and his friend playing a joke. They got me good! After that I didn't see anyone for awhile. Between Rae Lakes and camp I met a Southbound weekend hiker. I said hello and he said 'hi, you must be Helicopter'. It seems my legend precedes me. Actually some hikers told him the day before he'd probably see me. Rae Lakes was beautiful and I almost camped there but kept going because the camp here sets me up good for another pass in the morning. I'm glad I did because Legion and Steady are here as well as a few other thrus. It's good to be back in the trail.
Friday, June 15, 2012
Bishop ZerosZeros
I have had a wonderful two days in Bishop. Thursday was spent doing chores. It pretty much took all day to do our shopping, resupply, laundry and other odds and ends. That Guy and I spent a lot of time at Eastmans Outfitter. I was able to replace the leaky bite valve on my hydration bladder with a new locking one. That guy got a new shirt & hat. We ran into Beardo, Scrambled Legs, and a couple other hikers at the store too. Friday, my friend Darlene drove up from LA to visit. It was so much fun catching up. We walked around, ran a couple more errands, had dinner, but mostly just talk, talk, talked. That Guy took the 1pm bus back to Independence with 14 other hikers heading back to the trail. I've enjoyed this much needed rest but find I'm ready and anxious to get back on trail. Back to the mountains. I'm looking forward to what lies ahead on the trail and the surprises that will come. The trail really does provide and can be magical. I'm feeling good and strong as well. Darlene is going to hike a couple of miles with me up the Kearsarge pass trail in the morning. That'll be great. It's around 8 miles back up to the PCT. My pack is heavy again since I'm fully resupplied. So it'll be slow going at first, but that's ok. Steady onward.
June 13 Mile 786 - Bull Frog Trail
Today we hiked the 10 miles to the Onion Valley trail head via the Bull Frog trail and then up and over Kearsarge pass. It was another beautifully scenic day past the Kearsarge Pinnacles and lots of alpine lakes. We took our time and enjoyed the hike out. However, the closer we got to the trail head the quicker our pace til we were running down the trail. Trail magic and a ride to town awaited us. Bristle Cone and Über Bitch were camped out and giving rides. Everyone we'd been hiking with was there: Lumbar & Choo choo, Archie, & others. The road into town was on a winding mt rd. We descended from green mountains to the hot desert town of Independence. So different. Made me want to turn around and go back. I picked up my boxes at the Chevron station, and had lunch at Subway, and then all of us hopped on the bus to Bishop. Bishop has more stores, motels, and restaurants than either Lone Pine or Independence, including an outfitter. So it made sense to come here. People here are super friendly to hikers. All the trail towns are cool. Bishop has a real western feel & has the world famous Schats Bakery. Yumm.
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
June 12, Mile 766 - 786
RtSection G is finished and Section H begins. It was another epic day. I've never felt so high as I have these last couple days. I didn't think anything could top Whitney but today Forester pass did. Forester pass is the highest point on the PCT at 13,900 feet. We went up the south side and had to cross some snowfields on the way down. I thought I was videoing That Guys descent and the surrounding scenery but I forgot to push the record button after switching from camera to video. Too bad because That Guy fell back on his butt. It was classic. I hiked with a great group of guys today. Besides That Guy there was Archie and Scrambled Leg. They all rock. We ate all going down the Bullfrog trail with me tomorrow to get to the Onion Valley trailhead and from there Independence. I ate my last dinner tonight and all I have left for tomorrow is beef jerky. So its a good thing I'm going into town. I can't get enough of the Sierra views. They just don't stop. There's always more crazy beautiful views.
Mt Whitney!
Can the Sierras get any better? Every day is so awesome and beautiful. Today we hiked to the top of Mt Whitney. There were a few mountain lakes on the way up. And the 360 degree views from the top were incredible. What was really good though was how strong I felt. I even ran a stretch towards the top. There were several thru hikers up there with us so we got a group photo. There were also a lot of weekend hikers who hiked up from the east side near Lone Pine. One of the things I've been learning from this hike is how to let go and be in the moment. It's actually been a topic of conversation between That Guy and I, and other hikers as well. When we got back down to camp we cooked dinner and then celebrated our summit with Raspberry Crumble for desert. While we were eating a search and rescue helicopter landed in the meadow and picked up a hiker. No one knew who he was and what was wrong with him. More reunions happened this evening as more hikers came in to climb Whitney in the morning so we had a lot of fun swapping stories and pictures. It's going to be cold tonight so I'm sleeping in all of my clothes, including my rain pants, inside my 15 degree down sleeping bag. The sleeping bag will be in mummy mode. That means you can't see my face except for perhaps my nose.
June 10 Mile 751 - 767 Crabtree Meadow
Today has been the best day ever. It's probably my happiest day on the trail. It's partly due to the grandeur surrounding me. But it's also because I felt more free and unconstrained. Unconstrained by heat, lack of water, mileage or pace. I have a great hiking partner too. It's been nice to share the Sierras with another person because its all so big, beautiful, epic, overwhelming, and awesome. Pinch me. All my hiking partners have been great. First Black Snake, then Easy Miles, Fig & Backup, Hee Haw & Malpractice, Argentina, & now That Guy.
The last two days we've been hiking in the Inyo National Forest/Golden Trout Wilderness. Today we entered Kings Canyon & Sequoia National Park. It took us awhile to hike the 17 miles to Crabtree Meadows because we kept stopping to take pictures. There were deer grazing in a meadow and a Marmot who posed for a picture before scampering off. The upper Crabtree Meadow near the ranger station is dotted with small tents. It's been reunion time. This is the base camp for climbing Mt Whitney. Mt Whitney is 14,505 feet and the tallest mountain in the US outside of Alaska. From Crabtree its an 8.5 mile climb. I'm really excited to be here. We'll be climbing it in the morning. The hikers who summited today said the views & hike was really awesome. I'm feeling strong and acclimated to the elevation. We will leave our tents set up & just carry water & snacks up so our packs will be super light!
Mile 737 - 751
Today was the best day of hiking ever. First of all I got to have my tea & breakfast. Then we just took our time and enjoyed the views, taking pictures, & talking to people we met along the way. We planned on getting water and resting for an hour when we got to a water source at 151. Then we were going to hike another 3 - 5 miles. However, there was a beautiful lake here. We couldn't leave. We spent all afternoon here & then just decided to stay and camp. It doesn't make a difference because we get to the Mt Whitney junction tomorrow and will stop there. We plan to climb Whitney the following day. I had a delicious dinner of curry and rice and for desert That Guy had chocolate cheesecake that we shared. Yummy! My camera doesn't do the scenery justice.
Mile 719 - 737
Hello from 10,000 feet. It has been such a beautiful hiking day. I got my first glimpse of the high sierras. And I've been hiking in a forest of Bristle Cone pines with boulders strewn about. I've been sharing the trail and rest stops with Astro, Trail Whore, and Argentina. That Guy caught up to us at 3pm. It's working out well. His hiking partners are too far ahead so he's going to join forces with me. Argentina is getting off the trail in the morning and skip ahead since he's done this section before. I'm not used to the altitude yet but otherwise feeling good. My tendon isn't bothering me anymore. I'm getting my enthusiasm for the trail back and feeling happy to be out here again. I thought about Easy Miles a lot today and I hope he's ok and its just a matter of a few days rest. I hope he can heal and get back to the trail.
Mile 702.8 - 719
Easy Miles has been nursing a sore right leg and thinks it is a shin splint.He wrapped it and took Ibuprofen. We hiked out in the evening up to the Kennedy Meadows campground 2.5 miles up trail. It was a real nice campground and a camper, Chris, invited us over to enjoy his campfire. The next morning, Easy Miles wasn't feeling too good. His foot and ankle was all swollen and there was a purple, black, and blue splotch on his foot. Not good at all. Well Nugio and his dad had a motor home and car there and Nugio was going to LA to pick up a friend from the airport. So they fed us breakfast and then Easy Miles left with Nugio. He was going to go to an Urgent Care and get it looked at.
I hiked on. I hiked with Argentina today and there are a lot of hikers on the trail that I know so I won't be 'alone' in the Sierras. It was so beautiful today. There were meadows, trees, mountains ahead, and Water. Lots of water. The Kern river cuts through the valley we went through. I love the sound of running water and there are lots of places to fill my bottles. The bear cannister did not want to fit in my backpack. I finally figured something out though and crammed everything in. It makes a great camp stool. I didn't get any pictures because I couldnt get my phone turned on. It's working now though so tomorrow, I'll take some pictures.
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
Kennedy Meadows mile 702.8
I'm so excited to finally be here in Kennedy Meadows. Its Sierra Nevada time. I arrived Wed June 5 at 4 pm. I got a hot meal and Ben & Jerry's Peach Cobbler ice cream. Yes, I ate it all. I also got my resupply box, my bear cannister, my bounce box, and REI box. My new trekking poles came so no more fixing and refixxing poles every day. They even match my backpack. They are purple Black Diamond women's trail shock poles. I'm very happy to have them.
The population here is 200. There is a general store and Tom Figeuroas "internet cafe." There is no cell service, just a payphone. There are a lot of excited hikers too. Me included.
I'm glad the desert with its heat and lack of water is over. I know there will be other challenges ahead but I will just roll with it. I'm actually feeling strong today. That's a good thing cause the bear cannister adds 2lbs to my pack and I'll be climbing some high passes.
Easy Miles has a shin splint problem in his right leg and needs to rest. So I may need to join up with another group. It's generally not a good idea to go solo in the Sierras. However since its a low snow year it may not matter. In any case, "Yaaaaay!!!!"
Mile 657 - 681
The morning started well with a hot cup of tea. I love tea in the morning, especially in camp when its chilly out. I'm hiking with Easy Miles again. Our hike today climbed up and up into the high desert and on into a more alpine like environment. It was cool and shady most of the day. Yay! The desert is being left behind as we approach the Sierras. I will not miss the desert. Tonight while setting up camp in Chimney Creek campground, a hiker yelled "bear!" Sure enough, a large brown bear was walking down the road right by where we were camping. He was simultaneously minding his own business and checking us out. I grabbed my phone to get a picture but only got his rear end. He was walking quickly and I didn't want to get too close. We are definately hanging up our food away from our tents.
It felt so nice to get into camp early enough to set up my tent, cook dinner, and relax. Something I haven't done in a week. Just to orient people to where I am. Walker pass is near the towns of Lake Isabella and Onyx. I'm currently 30 miles north of there and will be in Kennedy Meadows tomorrow night, Monday. More and more hikers keep coming in to camp. It's windy and chilly out, but I'm snug in my tent.
Sunday, June 3, 2012
Sat night mile 657
I had a pleasant hike out with Easy Miles. Watched the moon rise on one side of the ridge and the sun set on the other. I feel strong and good again. I had to work off all that food I ate today!
Walker Pass 2
It's a nero day. I slept in. There was breakfast at 7. It was breakfast burritos and they were delicious. I pushed myself pretty hard to get here, 31 miles. Let's just say I was highly motivated. I need to slow it down now so I'm not exhausted when I get to Kennedy Meadows. It's 50 miles ahead at mile 702. I remember Erin (Wired) talking in her blog last year about feeling fatigued. She made it to Canada. I will too. I just have to make myself not push to hard and take time to rest. So no more big days for awhile. Today I'm resting, enjoying the food, cold drinks, and company of other hikers til this evening. Then hiking out with Easy Miles for 10 miles.
I really enjoyed my solo hiking. I didn't see another hiker til 4pm. It was kinda cool being alone in this vast wilderness. It really was beautiful even though it was giving me a beating. I couldn't appreciate it much going through but acknowledged it. Okie Girl, who put on this trail magic, really is an angel. She helped me more than words can explain here. I'm feeling good again and looking forward to the Sierras.
Mile 575 - 602 Robin Springs
I'm sitting under a tree resting in its shade. We got here at noon and I promptly fell asleep. The plan is to hike again at 4 the final 13 miles to the spring. We should get there at ten tonight so there won't be time to blog. This section is turning into the hottest, dryest section I've experienced so far. It was funny this 'morning', Easy Miles woke me up "Black Hawk, its 430, time to get up." I'm all groggy and disoriented, and its dark out but ok. As I'm searching for my glasses and crawling out of my sleeping bag, he comes back over, "Black Hawk, go back to sleep, I looked at my watch wrong and its only 1230." Ha ha ha Then we both overslept and got going later than we wanted. But its all working out. The trail has been mostly level and downhill so my leg has been doing ok. Sore but not too painful. It's the uphill that puts a strain on it. So I'm thankful for the reprieve. Oh, also this morning around 6, a beautiful skunk with big fluffy tail came ambling down the trail towards us. When he registered our presence he stopped, looked at us for a bit, then turned around and scampered off. He really did have a beautiful coat and was rather cute.
Mile 558 - 575
I'm finished with section E and have begun section F. Today started out really well. We didn't get hiking til 930 due to a post office stop. But I was raring to go! I felt eager, energetic, and excited. Hiking time and on to Kennedy Meadows. The first 8 miles to the water cache were easy. There were homeade chocolate chip cookies and strawberries at the cache too. A former hikers mom had left them. Yummy. But then we had to fill up on water and my pack got heavy fast. Then there came a very long 2000 + ft climb along with hot sun. I had to keep stopping in the shade to rest. I made myself an electrolyte drink and got recharged. Then whamm. Pain shot through my left ankle/tendon. I had already been feeling bad about slowing Easy Miles and Argentina down, now this! So I stopped again to rest, take some Ibuprofen, and tape it up. The tape helped and we went a few more miles to get over the hill. But, I couldn't do the 20 miles we were aiming for. The guys, bless their hearts are sticking with me for now. We jokingly called ourselves the three stooges. I'm Moe, Easy Miles is Larry, and Argentina is Curly. The plan is for me to get up early to take advantage of cool morning temps and because I may have to take a lot of rest stops. Aaaaggghh!
I didn't get any pictures today. Initially it was just more windfarms marring the view. We're in high desert now though and there are trees and rocky outcroppings and beautiful views.
June 2 Walker Pass
I made it! Walker Pass is the end of section F and Southern California. Trail magic was waiting. Nuff said.
Ps here is a picture of Team Turtle who brightened my day.